Author: Dr. Elisabet Dilmé, Dermatologist.

September 15, 2025

Skin aging is a biological process secondary to intrinsic factors such as age, race, or genetics, and to extrinsic factors, also known as the exposome. The exposome causes oxidative stress, leading to the production of free radicals that can be harmful to our skin cells. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun is the primary extrinsic factor, accounting for nearly 80% of our skin aging. Other extrinsic factors to consider include tobacco, alcohol, malnutrition, sedentary lifestyle, pollution, and psychological or physical stress.

Physiologically, skin aging is mainly characterized by the progressive loss of collagen and elastin in the dermis. Other observed changes include decreased epidermal renewal and pigmentary changes. This translates visibly into wrinkles, loss of firmness, and the appearance of spots.

For decades, retinoids have been the gold standard in topical anti-aging therapy. However, the associated irritation has driven the search for derivatives with better tolerability or new molecules. In recent years, innovative compounds have been developed as alternatives to classic retinoids, thus expanding our dermocosmetic arsenal.

Among these more recently introduced compounds, we find retinal and bakuchiol, two ingredients that have attracted attention for their clinical efficacy and improved skin tolerability. Both molecules, with different origins and mechanisms of action, are great allies in combating the signs of skin aging and improving our skin's quality.

Niacinamide is a scientifically well-supported active ingredient that offers additional advantages. This soluble form of vitamin B3 has been widely used in cosmetic dermatology for decades due to its multiple beneficial properties, with its protective and reparative action being the most notable.

To better understand how they work, here's a brief explanation of their qualities and how their combination helps enhance their results while minimizing adverse effects.

 

 

Retinal: a powerful stimulator of cell renewal and collagen synthesis.

Retinal is a derivative of vitamin A. It is part of the retinoid family, which also includes retinol and retinoic acid.

In the metabolic conversion pathway, retinal, unlike retinol, is only one enzymatic transformation step away from retinoic acid. In our skin, retinol is first transformed into retinal and finally converted into retinoic acid, the biologically active form that interacts with the receptors of our skin cells, promoting collagen and elastin production. Retinal allows for a quicker response than retinol and offers less skin sensitivity than retinoic acid. In conclusion, we will observe visible results on our skin sooner than with retinol without suffering the unwanted irritating effects of retinoic acid.

Its main benefits with clinical evidence are:

·       Acceleration of epidermal renewal, improving skin texture and reducing hyperpigmentation such as sun spots.

·       Reduction of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity due to collagen and elastin production by fibroblasts.

·       Decrease in sebum production, eliminating shine, blackheads, and imperfections.

For these reasons, retinal is emerging as the most promising option among intermediate topical retinoids, offering a perfect combination of potency and tolerance.

To achieve these benefits, it is important to follow a correct application routine. It should always be applied at night and removed in the morning, followed by topical photoprotection to avoid possible photosensitivity. It is also important to note that its application should be gradual to allow the skin to adapt to the product, increasing its frequency of administration as tolerated. Retinal can be used on all skin types, but the frequency of use should be adjusted individually to the level of skin sensitivity.

 

Bakuchiol: the plant-based alternative to retinol.

Bakuchiol is a natural compound extracted from the Chinese medicinal plant Psoralea corylifolia.

Although it does not belong to the retinoid family and is a structurally different molecule, it is often presented as "vegan retinol" because it has similar effects on the skin. It is considered a plant-based alternative with similar mechanisms of action to retinol but with better skin tolerability.

Its main benefits with clinical evidence are:

·       Reduction of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity by stimulating collagen and elastin production by fibroblasts.

·       Antioxidant activity, as it neutralizes free radicals and reduces oxidative damage.

·       Soothing action due to its anti-inflammatory effect, inhibiting pro-inflammatory mediators.

·       Prevention of sun spots by reducing the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme that produces melanin.

Although bakuchiol has less potency compared to retinal, combining the two products will achieve a synergistic effect. Together, we maximize their efficacy, achieving better visible results on our skin.

 

Niacinamide: a versatile active ingredient that strengthens the skin barrier.

Another well-established active ingredient in current dermatological cosmetics is niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3.

Topically, it offers multiple extra benefits:

·       It strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating the production of ceramides and lipids. It helps maintain hydration and protect the skin from external agents.

·       It has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect, reducing the release of pro-inflammatory mediators.

·       It reduces spots and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes.

·       It also regulates sebum production, reducing shine and the appearance of blackheads.

Niacinamide will enhance spot reduction and promote greater skin adaptation to retinal and bakuchiol, providing an extra boost of skin hydration.

Skin aging is an irreversible process, but we can slow its course with the help of good, scientifically backed cosmetic products. Combining retinal, bakuchiol, and niacinamide offers a triple action to renew and strengthen our skin. Retinal and bakuchiol accelerate cell turnover along with new collagen production, and niacinamide will reinforce our skin barrier. Together, they offer a comprehensive approach for firmer, more even, and healthier skin.