Author: Dr. Elisabet Dilmé, Dermatologist.

September 15, 2025

Skin aging is a biological process that is secondary to intrinsic factors such as age, race, or our genetics, and to extrinsic factors, also called the exposome. The exposome will produce oxidative stress with the subsequent production of free radicals that can be harmful to our skin cells. The main extrinsic factor is ultraviolet radiation from the sun, which causes almost 80% of our skin aging. Other extrinsic factors to consider are tobacco, alcohol, malnutrition, a sedentary lifestyle, pollution, and psychological or physical stress.

At the physiological level, skin aging is mainly characterized by the progressive loss of collagen and elastin in the dermis. Other observed changes include decreased epidermal renewal and pigmentary changes. This will translate into visible wrinkles, loss of firmness, and the appearance of spots.

For decades, retinoids have been the gold standard in topical anti-aging therapy. However, the irritation associated with them has prompted the search for derivatives with better tolerance or new molecules. In recent years, innovative compounds have been developed that are offered as alternatives to classic retinoids, thus increasing our dermocosmetic arsenal.

Among these more recently appearing compounds, we find retinal and bakuchiol, two ingredients that have attracted attention for their clinical efficacy and better skin tolerability. Both molecules, with different origins and mechanisms of action, are great allies to combat the signs of skin aging and improve the quality of our skin.

A scientifically well-backed active ingredient that will provide us with additional advantages is niacinamide. This soluble form of vitamin B3 has been widely used in cosmetic dermatology for decades due to its multiple beneficial properties, with its protective and repairing action being the most notable.

To better understand how they work, we present a brief explanation of their qualities and how their combination helps enhance their results while minimizing adverse effects.

Retinal: a powerful stimulator of cell renewal and collagen synthesis.

Retinal is a derivative of vitamin A.  It is part of the retinoid family, which also includes retinol and retinoic acid.

In the metabolic conversion pathway, retinal, unlike retinol, is only one enzymatic transformation step away from retinoic acid. In our skin, retinol is first transformed into retinal and finally converted into retinoic acid, the biologically active form that interacts with the receptors of our skin cells, promoting the production of collagen and elastin. Retinal will allow us a faster response than retinol and offers less skin sensitivity than retinoic acid. In conclusion, we will observe visible results in our skin sooner than with retinol without suffering the unwanted irritating effects of retinoic acid.

Its main clinically proven benefits are:

·       Acceleration of epidermal renewal, improving skin texture and reducing hyperpigmentation such as sun spots.

·       Reduction of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity thanks to the production of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts.

·       Decreased sebum production, eliminating shine, blackheads, and imperfections.

For these reasons, retinal is emerging as the most promising option among intermediate topical retinoids, offering a perfect combination of potency and tolerance.

To achieve these benefits, it is important to follow a correct application routine. It should always be applied at night and removed in the morning, followed by topical photoprotection to avoid possible photosensitivity. It is also important to note that its application should be progressive so that the skin adapts to the product, increasing its frequency of administration according to tolerance. Retinal can be used on all skin types, but the frequency of use must be adjusted to the individual's skin sensitivity level.

Bakuchiol: the plant-based alternative to retinol.

Bakuchiol is a natural compound extracted from the Chinese medicinal plant Psoralea corylifolia.

Although it does not belong to the retinoid family and is a structurally different molecule, it is often presented as "vegan retinol" because it has similar effects on the skin. It is considered a plant-based alternative with mechanisms of action similar to retinol but with better skin tolerance.

Its main clinically proven benefits are:

·       Reduction of fine wrinkles and increased skin elasticity by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts.

·       Antioxidant activity as it neutralizes free radicals and reduces oxidative damage.

·       Soothing action due to its anti-inflammatory effect, inhibiting pro-inflammatory mediators.

·       Prevention of sun spots by reducing the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme that produces melanin.

Although bakuchiol has lower potency compared to retinal, when we combine the two products, we will achieve a synergistic effect.  Together, we maximize their efficacy, achieving better visible results on our skin.

Niacinamide: a versatile active ingredient that strengthens the skin barrier.

Another established active ingredient in current dermatological cosmetics is niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3.

Topically, it offers us multiple extra benefits:

·       It strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating the production of ceramides and lipids. It will help us maintain hydration and protect the skin from external agents.

·       It has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect, reducing the release of pro-inflammatory mediators.

·       It reduces spots and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes.

·       It also regulates sebum production, reducing shine and the appearance of blackheads.

Niacinamide will enhance spot reduction and promote greater adaptation of our skin to retinal and bakuchiol, providing an extra boost of skin hydration.

Skin aging is an irreversible process, but we can slow its course with the help of good, scientifically backed cosmetic products. Combining retinal, bakuchiol, and niacinamide offers a triple action to renew and strengthen our skin. Retinal and bakuchiol accelerate cell turnover along with new collagen production, and niacinamide will strengthen our skin barrier. Together, they offer a comprehensive approach for firmer, more even, and healthier skin.