Bakuchiol - a meroterpene plant compound extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (babchi), a plant traditionally used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. It offers benefits similar to retinoids without their typical side effects (irritation, peeling, photosensitivity). Although structurally different from retinol, bakuchiol activates the same nuclear receptors (RAR), producing similar effects on gene expression. It induces the synthesis of type I, III and IV collagen, improving firmness and elasticity; neutralises reactive oxygen species (ROS), protecting against oxidative damage; reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines, soothing the skin; inhibits melanin production, fading dark spots; and improves skin barrier function, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Action:
- Clinically proven anti-aging effect when applied to the skin (reversing the harmful effects of photoaging).
- Reduction of hyperpigmentation: Clinical studies have shown bakuchiol's ability to inhibit melanin synthesis.
- Antibacterial effect: Topical application of bakuchiol inhibits the growth of bacteria common on healthy skin, such as S. aureus and S. epidermidis, which can cause some skin infections.
- Anti-inflammatory effect: It reduces levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Elevated levels of these cytokines are found in aged skin due to chronic exposure to UVA and UVB radiation.
- Antioxidant effect: Bakuchiol has a proven ability to block free radicals, reducing the metabolic oxidation that leads to skin aging.
Retinal - Clinical trials have indicated that combining Retinal, a natural vitamin A metabolite that stimulates cell renewal and collagen production, with bakuchiol creates a powerful synergy that boosts their properties on skin cells and skin barrier function without causing irritation.
In addition, when formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients such as niacinamide, Retinal reversed UV-induced deficits in the structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. This resulted in a reversal of the clinical signs of aging, with a significant improvement in skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), number of wrinkles (−43.2%) and skin tone evenness (+7.0%), observed after 28 days of nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet was reduced in 100% of patients. Retinal offers many advantages over retinol, as it is one metabolic step closer to retinoic acid, which is what ultimately acts on the skin. In other words, compared with retinol, retinal:
- acts faster
- is 11 times more potent
- has antibacterial effects
- is less irritating
Advantages of retinal vs. other retinoids: It only requires one enzymatic step to convert into retinoic acid (retinol requires two), making it significantly more potent and faster-acting. Despite its high potency, it causes less irritation than medical retinoic acid. It has antibacterial properties unique among retinoids, beneficial for acne-prone skin. Visible results appear in 4-6 weeks vs. 8-12 weeks with conventional retinol. Retinal is 10-20 times more potent than retinol in in vitro studies.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) - Regulates sebum production, reduces redness and improves skin tone (brightens the skin). In gel form, it has a soothing, anti-inflammatory and brightening effect. Topical application of niacinamide, alone or combined with other active ingredients, has been clinically shown to slow down skin aging and hyperpigmentation. It stimulates skin collagen synthesis and inhibits its breakdown. Niacinamide is one of the most studied ingredients in cosmetic dermatology, with more than 100 clinical studies demonstrating its efficacy.
It strengthens the skin barrier by stimulating the synthesis of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 24%; regulates sebum production by up to 30% without drying; stimulates the synthesis of type I and III collagen and inhibits the MMPs that break it down, reducing wrinkles and improving firmness; inhibits melanosome transfer, reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone; reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines, calming redness and irritation and improving the tolerability of retinal; and acts as a precursor of NAD+ and NADP+, essential cofactors in cellular DNA repair.
Tocopheryl acetate - tocopheryl acetate is a vitamin E derivative that converts into vitamin E in the skin. It is a powerful antioxidant which, thanks to its lipophilic properties, protects cell membranes and skin cells from free radicals, slows down the aging process, regenerates the epidermis and supports hydration. It helps improve the surface structure and increases the skin's ability to retain moisture.
In the epidermis, vitamin E is the most important antioxidant providing cellular protection. It captures the aggressive compounds formed in the skin as a result of UV radiation, medication and pollutants, thus preventing premature aging, with particular focus on reducing acute erythema and photoaging. Other important, clinically proven results of using tocopheryl acetate include improvements in expression lines around the eyes, roughness, radiance, skin colour, elasticity, density, collagen production and the overall appearance of the skin.
D-Panthenol - an analogue of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), a provitamin with important proven properties. When applied to the skin, panthenol penetrates it and converts into vitamin B5. It intensely soothes and hydrates, and speeds up the healing of micro-injuries to the skin after shaving. Its soothing effect is especially beneficial for sensitive and irritated skin. It helps reduce redness and discomfort, providing immediate relief. It has the ability to attract and retain moisture, preventing its loss. Well-hydrated skin is not only softer and more elastic, but also healthier and therefore more resistant to external aggressors. In addition, D-panthenol increases lipid synthesis and epidermal differentiation. D-panthenol is non-comedogenic.
Hyaluronic acid compounds of different molecular weights - Provides intense hydration, smooths and plumps the skin from the surface to the deepest layers. The four-level hyaluronic complex is a combination of different forms of hyaluronic acid that act at different levels of the skin to provide intense hydration and smoothness. These ingredients include sodium hyaluronate for surface hydration, cross-polymer hyaluronic acid for long-lasting hydration, low-molecular-weight hydrolysed hyaluronic acid to penetrate the deepest layers of the skin, and sodium acetylated hyaluronate for extra hydration and greater smoothness. QWADRUM has developed a unique hyaluronic acid complex containing molecules of different molecular weights in 5 different active compounds to ensure their properties are activated in every layer of the skin:
- Sodium acetylated hyaluronate: ultra-high molecular weight
- Sodium hyaluronate: high molecular weight
- Sodium hyaluronate: high-molecular-weight cross-linked polymer
- Sodium hyaluronate: ultra-low molecular weight
- Hydrolysed sodium hyaluronate: exceptionally low molecular weight